INTRODUCTION Hong Kong is a beguiling place to visit: a land whose aggressive capitalist instinct is tempered by an oriental concern with order and harmony. It’s true that you can still take English high tea, and that there’s horse racing, pubs and cocktail lounges, but for most Chinese here, life still follows a pattern that many mainland Chinese would recognize as their own: teeming markets, cramped housing and exuberant festivals. Meanwhile, 60km west across the Pearl River estuary, Macau makes Hong Kong look like the gaudy arriviste it is. In 1557, almost three hundred.
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